This is the finished product, but as you read on down, you will see it being built. Jessie has been breeding and raising rabbits for 14yrs. everything from meat, fur to pets that she’s sold.
As you can see...we built this inside the house because the weather was still too cold to build it outside...although wood was cut outside, thankfully to this ranch woman's delight! Ranch people are known for bringing their work into their house...even a new born calf when necessary!
We designed this hutch for convenience of breeding. We are building it for 2 does (one on each side) and 1 buck in the center. The does will be introduced into the buck’s area one at a time. Staying for 1-2 days to mate. It is done this way because if the buck was put into the doe’s cage…he may half the time have his mind on mating and the other half on smelling where she has been all throughout her area. We
want business to get done so we make sure they are in his area instead.
Rabbits are by nature solitary, getting together only
briefly to breed. The only time rabbits stay together in nature for any length
of time is when a mother rabbit is raising her young. And even then, she only
goes to them to feed them.
Click here for a good reference on this subject from a reputable source.
Depending on the disposition of the rabbit, most will socialize well with humans and we socialize with our rabbits regularly to keep them easy to handle and willing to be moved and touched. Some can become very nasty and can bite or scratch. Jessie had one she called “Grumpy Gus” as he had not been handled much when she got him. But he warmed up to her and became very sociable after she worked with him for quite a while. It was very difficult when she came home one day and found a neighbor dog had gotten in and been biting at his cage, scaring him which killed him with a heart attack.
These should be no more than about 15 % of the diet (About 1 tablespoon per 2 lbs. of body weight per day). Therefore a VERY small quantity is allowed in their diet.
Leafy Greens II (low in oxalic acid)
Click here for a good reference on this subject from a reputable source.
If you put them together, a doe will fight another doe and
a buck will fight another buck. Sometimes even a buck and a doe will not get
along and will fight if she is not “willing” or she is too young.
Depending on the disposition of the rabbit, most will socialize well with humans and we socialize with our rabbits regularly to keep them easy to handle and willing to be moved and touched. Some can become very nasty and can bite or scratch. Jessie had one she called “Grumpy Gus” as he had not been handled much when she got him. But he warmed up to her and became very sociable after she worked with him for quite a while. It was very difficult when she came home one day and found a neighbor dog had gotten in and been biting at his cage, scaring him which killed him with a heart attack.
Rabbits in the wild have a variety they choose from, but
their mainstay are grasses. Therefore in captivity it is best to feed them
grass hay and a little alfalfa.
Here is a good list
to go by when feeding things other than hay to rabbits. Hay or grasses make up
75% of their diet (about 1 packed cup per 2 lbs. of body weight per day).
*****Be
aware that fruit & lettuce are things you only want to feed them occasionally…not daily…feed a rabbit a slice of apple or banana…but
it can cause diabetes so it’s not something you want to do regularly. Lettuce
can cause diarrhea and dehydration because it’s a diuretic and eventually will
affect their kidneys and liver. Rabbits are susceptible to diarrhea…so if it
happens…check what you are feeding them. *****
LEAFY GREENS
These should be no more than about 15 % of the diet (About 1 tablespoon per 2 lbs. of body weight per day). Therefore a VERY small quantity is allowed in their diet.
Leafy Greens I (need
to be rotated due to oxalic acid content and only 1 out of three varieties of
greens a day should be from this list)
- Parsley
- Spinach
- Mustard
greens
- Beet
greens
- Swiss
chard
- Radish
tops
- Sprouts
(from 1 to 6 days after sprouting, sprouts have higher levels of
alkaloids)
Leafy Greens II (low in oxalic acid)
- Arugula
- Carrot
tops
- Cucumber
leaves
- Endive
- Ecarole
- Kale
(all types)
- Spring
greens
- Turnip
greens
- Dandelion
greens
- Mint
(any variety)
- Basil
(any variety)
- Watercress
- Wheatgrass
- Chicory
- Raspberry
leaves
- Cilantro
- Radicchio
- Bok
Choy
- Fennel
(the leafy tops as well as the base)
- Borage
leaves
- Dill
leaves
NON-LEAFY VEGETABLES
These should be no more than 10% of the diet (about 1
teaspoon per 2 lbs of body weight per day).VERY minute amount per day.
- Carrots
- Broccoli
(leaves and stems)
- Edible
flowers (roses, nasturtiums, pansies, hibiscus)
- Celery
- Chinese
pea pods (the flat kind without large peas)
- Brussel
sprouts
- Cabbage
(any type)
- Broccolini
- Summer
squash
- Zucchini
squash
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